All the way to the Mither Tap... 11th April 2015

There is no mountain in Aberdeenshire or indeed in the north of Scotland better known or visited than Bennachie - Alex Inkson Mc Connachie, 1980. 

Well considering the number of people ascending and descending from Mither Tap, I suppose it still holds true. I had never encountered so many people or cute four legged companions before on any of our walking trips. It was a beautiful sunny spring day and probably the crisp golden rays acted as magnet drawing young and old alike to climb the hill and get a splendid view of Aberdenshire, which was drowned in the shade of grey until a few days ago. For me this was a joyous reminder that summer would be peeking out soon.  It seemed like a happy family day, the only problem was capturing a frame without the enthusiastic climbers being a part of it.

It is much more than a tiny tea room

We started our walk much before the Bennachie information centre, as the nearest bus stop is about 2 miles away. On our way, we took a short break at old post office tea room that has an extremely amicable staff and serves the best lemon chicken sandwich I have ever had. So, 40 minutes and a sandwich later we arrived at the parking lot, where normally people begin their walk along one of the several trails in the region. It was a good warm up as there was a tough day ahead of us.

During the pre-trail walk through a country road, we were trying to anticipate which of the visible hills was our challenge that day and both of us put our bet undisputedly over a barren looking, ragged hill standing out in comparison to others. I kept scratching my head, thinking how would we climb such a rough looking rocky terrain. I even tried to spot people on the summit but it was hard to assess anything from such a distance. The thought of climbing that hill was sending chills down my spine or more appropriately my knees, but true to my fears it was indeed the one. 

Is that the one?...

Discover the secrets of Benachie at the visitor centre

Bennachie is a hill range with a variety of natural habitat that is home to diverse array of species. To explore its natural  and historical heritage there are trails to suit different abilities. Among the handful of hills in the region, Mither Tap looms at a height of 518 m exerting a powerful presence making it distinctly visible from miles away. Bennachie has a unique sense of feel, where history unfolds before your eyes once you realise that It was formed 10,000 years ago during the last ice age, human settlement here can be dated back to the bronze age, remains of a Pictish fort believed to be built around 600 AD still sits atop Tap, in 1800s people (called colonists) farmed this heathery landscape as the farmlands were scarce, during mid nineteenth century a quarry operated in the region whose workers shaped the granite just using mallet and chisel and  the young forests here were planted in 1950s. Clues to all this and more can be found along the walking trails, taking you on a journey back in time.

Get Set Go...

Once upon a time this was someone's home

We chose the shortest but the most demanding route up to Tap, courtesy my partner. The walk began on a forest trail taking us close to the ruins of colonist settlement and after a while we were standing at the base of the hill straining our neck to map its height. It was a steep ascent, where gravity was certainly not an ally and there was a further resistance in the form of wind. I was struggling to keep up with my co-hiker, who seemed to carry on effortlessly. Whenever I paused to look back (actually down as there was no back due to the steep incline) or click a picture I thought I would topple down. Every step on that rocky path was an act of balance. After half an hours climb, we reached the old fort entrance, where most of our fellow hikers chose a stable rock to relax and enjoy the panoramic view of Aberdeenshire. 

Hold on steady there is more to go

The first look back....

Still a long way ahead

I almost jumped in excitement on reaching there (thinking thats the highest point) and started looking for a place to sit, only to realise that my husband was nowhere close. when I tried searching for him, my eyes saw a familiar figure climbing further up. I couldn’t imagine one could climb on jumbled piles of rocks to reach the top  and then I saw many others attempting the adventure. For me it was a horror show in broad daylight. 

The fort entrance in view

So.. that is the entrance to the formidable fortress that stood strong centuries ago

My co-hiker looked back surprised that I was still glued to my safe viewing spot. So with short unwilling steps I followed him carefully, managing not to be the laughing stock by tripping over. It was a strenuous walk specially the small bit towards the end where I was trying hard to hold myself together against the gale force Wind.

Really!!!

Someone please hold me

With the final leap I reached the summit. At this point I should say that the magnificent view was worth the sweat and pain but unfortunately, I found it extremely difficult to keep my eyes open in the face of wind. Instead of taking tons of pictures, I diverted all my energy to keep myself standing and with my hair flying in every possible direction I could be compared to Medusa of modern times. The summit came in handy as I held on to it in a tight embrace. It was entertainment for my husband who couldn’t stop laughing looking at my state. That day I realised that some extra weight can be a boon sometimes.The raging wind was gaining power by the minute and the few enthusiast enjoying the view on the hill top started making their way down.I was more than happy to go down as my heart was pounding against my chest and my hands were almost numb. while getting down, I came across a furry dog sitting beside a lady and I could see the reflection of my fear in its eyes. 

Looking down towards the Fort entrance

On our way back

It was more difficult to climb down the rocks and at places I sat down thinking I could go no further with the wind pushing me so hard. I had a vision that I would be left stranded. It took a lot of effort and encouragement (from you know who) to just get down that small stretch of rocky path till the fortress entrance. It was embarrassing that I was struggling with my stuttering feet when others were gliding past me.  Reaching the ruins of the ancient fort felt like a winning a battle against an invincible foe and having done that every other walk feels like child’s play. After a short stop at the ruins to rest my shaky knees, we took an alternate descent route. 

Another hill in view...Oxen Craig

After a short walk in the heathland, we entered a forest patch that led us to the exit. After a days walk, picnic benches near the car park were a welcome site where we enjoyed home made meal under not so shady tree. By then sun was westward, preparing to set so we also decided to head home. 

Looking back at the mighty Mither Tap

All flat again..

How tempting is that...

Maiden Stone

On our way, next to a farm, we saw the famous Maiden stone with Pictish symbols and inscriptions. Time has faded  the symbols but faint markings are still visible.  It would be interesting to understand the meaning of the inscriptions and the significance of the obelisk, as apart from the ancient inscriptions, it looks just like any other rock structure.    

After taking a few pictures, we hurried towards the bus stop and while waiting for the bus, I kept looking at Mither Tap picturing the rewarding views that have been enjoyed for generations. After the adventure we had a good share of laugh, recalling my reactions and expressions at the summit. Though my nerves were frail at some points, I enjoyed the experience and learnt a good few tricks. Still a lot is left at Bennachie to be explored by us and next time I would climb the Tap again to vanquish my fear.

What the fort might have looked 1400 yrs ago

P.S - Couldn't avoid the glare in some photos. Investing in a hood seems a good idea.

Hiking along river Ness and Caledonian canal...8th February 2015

On this day we went to explore the capital city of the highlands...Inverness. Usually either of us (me or my husband) plans the entire trip from deciding the walking route to printing the route maps and checking the timings of buses or trains to and fro. But this particular Sunday was a deviation in terms of the usual preparation that goes into our  planning and yet it is one of the most memorable hiking experience. 

High Street....The city is yet to wake up!!

What lays beyond the High Street...

My husband previously lived here and on numerous occasions I had heard him quote Inverness as a very quiet and beautiful place, great for biking etc... So to satiate his nostalgia, we got on the morning train to Inbhir Nis (Inverness in gaelic.. which means mouth of river Ness) and onboard I was asked to choose between climbing a hill or walking along the river. I am so glad that I chose the latter, to walk along the caledonian canal.




Unlike most places, the walk can begin right from the high street. End of the high street is marked by a bridge on the river Ness that provides a spectacular view of either side, especially the one with the red sandstone Castle (that is currently not open for public and functions as a court house).  It is a historic city that stood witness to two great wars and still has some very old buildings that forms part of the heritage trail popular among tourists. King Duncan and his murderer, the famous Macbeth both ruled this north most city in highlands of Scotland. 

Inverness castle perched on the banks of Ness

River Ness coursing through the settlement adds to the charm and beauty of this serene city that sits amidst the surrounding hills. The city that stands divided by water stays connected  by several pearly white bridges (for pedestrians and cyclists) across Ness.  Banks on either side of Ness are lined by houses and I wonder how refreshing it would be to wake up in one of them looking at the sun rising behind the mountains and casting silhouettes of birds on the crystal clear river.

While walking along the River after crossing the bridge, it was hard to believe that we were in heart of the city.  It was exhilarating to hear the sound of rapping water while walking along its bank. Within the city there are many idyllic walking trails, specially the ones connecting the ness islands, which is a great place for birding. Well! that is reserved for some other weekend as this day, we planned to walk till the Dochgarroch lock, which forms a part of the Great glen way (117 Km long walking route) that extends till Fort William via the famous loch Ness.

Walk in the city centre

We were very lucky as it was mostly a bright and warm day.  Though, there were patches of clouds, the wind was on our side pushing the whites across the sky to let the sun smile on us. And the unobscured sunshine made it possible to capture some of the most beautiful pictures of this picturesque town.

Yet another bridge

I could sit here whole day long...

Wait for surprise beyond the antiquated steps

After spending an hour admiring the beauty of the city,  when I had almost depleted my reserve of vocabulary, we finally decided to move on and find the path that would take us to the Caledonian canal to begin our actual walk. Instead of taking the road beside a children's park (which is the usual route), in a row of confusion, we walked into the park and had to cross a small stream to get  back on the right track. But I must say it was more beautiful and exciting than the dull tar road that would have taken us to the starting point. 



After the long jump over the stream, there was a muddy rugby field to be crossed, that led to a set of rustic wooden stairs. what lay beyond was breathtaking. We were on a path with burbling river Ness on one side and the calm Caledonian canal on the other. The site was so mesmerising that I kept looking at it to fill the canvas of my imagination.  I wondered how vibrant this place would appear during the summers with more greens adorning the scene.

What can I say about this one....

One was not enough... had to turn back

Looking back again

Looks like a painting....

So blue!!

The walk continued on a towpath along the two water bodies for almost 3 miles, providing some pleasant views that changed with each bend of the canal. After a while, Ness meandered away from sight, only to return in view half a mile before our destination. There were small islands in the river, breaking the monotony of the coursing water, that are also home to many species of birds and trees. Apart from the shade of blue, distant hills and farmlands on the far side provided a contrasting character to the setting.  

After anticipating for a long time, that the destination was only few yards away we started feeling tired. There was a small trail of footsteps across really tall browning grass that led to the river. So, we took a detour towards the river and the site was absolutely blissful. Second time that day we had our snack break beside the blue of Ness and the overgrown grass on the bank provided the perfect cushion. On the other bank we could see the sheep busily grazing and few were homewards as dusk was closing in.

Almost there...

As we were getting close to the destination we could see array of colourful boats docked at the edge of the canal. They looked like fishing boats and some of them were very fancy. Straight ahead we could see peaks with some reminiscent snow, though I'm not sure if that was Ben Nevis ( highest mountain in British isles).

After a long walk finally at the destination....

 Still some snow on peaks afar...

Dockgarroch Lock

Caledonian canal  extends about 60 miles, which was built in the early 19th century and it stills remains pretty much the same after almost  200 years. only one third of its length is man made while, rest is formed by four lochs (lake). In summers, many cruise boats take people on tour in caledonian canal, to explore the scenery, history and mystery of highlands. we saw Jacobite queen, one of the tour boats docked while returning back to the city. There is also a nice tearoom at Dochgarrock lock that additionally offers great collectibles. Unfortunately, it was closed when we reached there. 

 Chirpy residents

Taking a U-turn

During summers there is a lot of activity on water with many people visiting the place but today it was just two of us and the exuberant birdies wadding in the quiet water of the canal. This path further extends till Fort William but we took a U-turn here to return on the far side bank, which lacked the view that we enjoyed while walking on the other bank.  We walked at a fast pace to catch the early evening train but the effort was in vain. Once we realised we can't be fast enough to make it in time we slowed down and enjoyed the beautiful sun set.

 Mallards having a nice time

 Journey back..

Time for sun to go home...

Beautiful colour palette

The Jacobite Queen in distance

Found the starting point.....finally!!!

The perfect lighting

By the time we reached the city centre it was almost dark.  We crossed the river by walking down on one of the bridges and went to the castle entrance on the other bank.  Bathed in artificial light it was shining like a jewel in the dark of night. The glow from the street lamps provided perfect lighting for a romantic evening along the river bank but at that moment my mind was busy conjuring up images of delectable dishes. So, it was time to hunt for a place to have a meal and relax those legs that had been on work since morning without a break.

The eventful day ended with a grand dinner at an Indian restaurant, before boarding the last train back home. I was in awe with the place, so to experience more of its magic and splendour, we have planned a walking holiday, on the Great Glen way, all the way to Fort william via Loch Ness during the summer. 

Looking forward to the trip!!!

I might get lucky to catch a glimpse of Nessie (legendary monster inhabiting Loch Ness).

Radiant fortress against the night sky